Maldives.. we come back!

Finally, a dream came true! 

Everyone knows the Maldives for the snow-white sandy beaches, the turquoise blue Indian Ocean and the beautiful underwater world. After arriving in the capital Male, most tourists go directly by speedboat or seaplane to the luxury resort they have booked. But the country has much more to offer than just a 'bounty holiday'. We visited the Maldives during the Eid break, at the end of April 2023, and discovered the local culture of the country.

Tourist and local islands

The Maldives, in full 'Republic of the Maldives', consists of 1196 islands (and a long list of 'disappeared underwater islands'). A distinction is made between 'resort islands' (for tourists) and 'local islands', of which approximately 200 are inhabited by the more than 520,000 Maldivians. On a local island, normal life prevails with a market, mosque, shops, restaurants, school, childcare, makeshift hospital, fishermen with colored fishing boats, etc. On the larger local islands there are often also a handful of (simple) hotels and restaurants, which be affordable.
There are approximately 130 resort islands on which luxury resorts have been built and they almost all look the same: a 'honeymoon island' with luxurious water villas on stilts in the sea, lush nature with winding palm trees on white beaches and a long, wooden jetty , as the only access path to the resort.
Besides the fact that the two types of islands differ in terms of 'looks' and prices, the rules of life are also very different. On local islands people live according to the Islamic faith. For example, no alcohol is served (there are creative solutions for this!) and you are not allowed to walk and swim anywhere in a bikini or swimming trunks.

Our experience with local island Maafushi

After a flight of about 4 hours, we arrive at Male International Airport. We are warmly welcomed by our host at 'Crystal Sands', our hotel on Maafushi ~large island in Divehi~ which is located about 25 kilometers south of Male with about 2700 islanders. A little later we board a speedboat, which - because we share it - costs 25 USD per person (children up to 12 years old - 15 USD) and it is about a 30-minute boat ride to the island. Along the way we stop at another island to drop and pick up people. A beautiful and - fortunately - quiet cruise. We also sail under the 'China-Maldives Friendship Bridge'; This bridge was donated by China to the Maldives and connects the island of Male with the artificial islands of Hulhulé and Hulhumale.

Upon arrival at Maafushi there is a lot of activity. Our bags are placed on a trailer behind a tuk tuk. The hotel is a few steps from the quay, we can walk there. The hotel is simple, but fine. We receive a welcome drink and the host informs us about the excursion options for the next day. Later that evening we walk around the island and have a (cheap) meal in one of the local restaurants that can be found along the quay. About 100 meters from the quay there is a 'party boat', where you can sail to have a beer or another alcoholic drink. There is (live) music everywhere and it is very lively with many backpackers, divers and surfers living among the locals.

Morning stroll 

At dawn we take a walk on the island. We stroll through the sandy streets and see the 'local side' of the Maldives, shabby houses, rubbish on the streets, beaches with stranded boats and lots of plastic. We also walk past Maafushi Prison, the largest prison in the Maldives, where numerous political prisoners are held.
The few Maafushians we meet along the way greet us friendly. In addition to Divehi, a mix of Sinhala, Arabic and Hindi, people also speak good English, which is of course not surprising, because the country was under the British protectorate from 1887 before it became independent in 1965.

After breakfast we go to 'bikini beach', where the ladies can swim in bikinis. We book a donut boat for 30USD and we go snorkeling at the 'house reef'. We eat and drink in the local tents. Since it is EID, there are also all kinds of folkloric activities on the island, such as a musical parade with men dressed as mythical red sea monsters, Rannemaari. Impressive!

Our experience with tourist island: Olhuveli

The next morning we take a private boat to our next destination, Sun Siyam Olhuveli Island. This transfer is included in the package price (from the Olhuveli resort) and takes 15 minutes. Olhuveli is a tourist island and one 'from the book': a paradise on earth! We have a beautiful bungalow with a private beach and an incredibly beautiful view at our disposal.
The resort offers several restaurants with live entertainment, swimming pools, wellness, diving school, kids club and many water sports activities. We go snorkeling and diving and enjoy Olhuveli's 'house reef'. We see whale sharks, orange nemo fish, trigger and zebra fish and schools of colorful fish. We also do a snorkeling tour to another reef. Along the way there are teeming dolphins, what luck. We stay 2 nights and completely relax.

Recap: 'Maldives on a budget' VS 'Maldives deluxe resort'

We really liked the atmosphere on the local islands of Male and Maafushi; there is a lively, Asian 'backpackers vibe' and you also get quite a Maldives feeling: despite the absence of villas on stilts, you will also find the bright blue sea, the soft sandy beach, the unpaved roads and swaying palm trees, just a bit more in a messy context. In terms of atmosphere, beach and coral, the island is no less than a tourist island and since an overnight stay on a tourist island is very pricey (5x as expensive), the Maldives is still within reach for backpackers and travelers with a different budget or who do not care about give luxury. Another advantage, a local island offers an authentic experience, you stay among the locals. But let's be honest, a few days on a resort island is certainly not a punishment!

Please be aware that all international travellers flying to Maldives must complete the Traveller Declaration Form within 96 hours of arrival.

Rising sea levels

The 1,196 islands are so flat that they barely rise above sea level, leading climate scientists to suspect that the Maldives will be the world's first country to be swallowed up by the sea. The new island of Hulhumale, which has been (and is being) developed two meters above sea level, should accommodate the majority of Maldivians in the future. Other solutions include the realization of floating homes.

Tips:
1. The Maldives is Islamic and strict rules apply on local islands.
2. For a few dollars you can go 'island hopping' with the local ferry. Friday is the holy day and there are no ferries (sometimes speed boats).
3. You can book a day trip to a tourist island; You only pay a fraction of an overnight stay, but you get to experience the luxurious side of the Maldives (and beautiful pictures)!
4. 'Picky eaters': don't worry, there is plenty of fresh fish, salad, good coffee, fresh smoothies (in coconuts), fries and pizza.
5. Best time to travel: from November to April.
6. Budget tip: fly with WizzAir from Abu Dhabi.
7. You can pay everywhere with USD and especially on the local islands you have to pay a lot in cash (be careful not to damage your notes because they are not accepted).